After visiting the GWRRA Message Board, I’ve noticed that many people have questions about how to compress the fork springs after they replace their fork seals.

Removal of the fork caps on the Honda Gold Wing forks is not only very dangerous, it is totally unnecessary unless you want to change your stock springs to aftermarket springs. Any time you remove the fork caps, you might as well consider it a two-man job to replace the caps.
As I mentioned above, you do not need to remove the caps and springs if all you’re going to do is replace your seals. Follow your service manual instructions for removing the forks from the motorcycle. If you haven’t yet drained your fluid, remove the 6 mm hex head plug and drain the forks into a suitable container, such as an oil drain pan. For the 1980-1987 Gold Wings, you’ll need a set of good strong snap ring pliers, preferably ones with a 90-degree angle, to remove the snap ring after you pry the dust boot up with a screwdriver. Clamp the fork slider in a vise, and remove the socket head bolt from the bottom of the fork. The socket head bolt was installed with Loctite at the factory, so you might have to strike it several times with a drift to break it loose.
For the GL1000 models (1975-1979), the fork pipe, piston, spring, oil lock piece, fork bolt, and rubber cap will come out as one assembly. The lock piece might stay stuck in the bottom of the slider, but it will come out by tapping it with a long screwdriver. If it stays stuck in the slider, don’t worry about it. Pry out the dust seal, seal stop ring, seal, and back-up ring. Clean the fork slider with solvent. Reassemble the fork pipe and fork slider. Install the back-up ring. Coat the new seal with fork oil and press it in with a Honda fork seal driver or other suitable tool. Do not tap it in with hammer and punch. Install the seal stop ring and dust boot. Use a large medical syringe to inject 200 cc of SAE 15 fork oil into the drain hole near the bottom of the fork. Hold the fork with the bottom tilted up to help prevent spillage. You can use a piece of 6 mm neoprene tubing to make an adapter that will form its own threads when you screw it into the drain hole, and then attach the syringe to your adapter. When you press the plunger in to inject, pull the plunger out to relieve pressure in the fork. Then you can refill the syringe and replace the plunger to inject again until you have injected 200 cc of fork oil into the fork.
For the GL1100 models, particularly the 1980-1982 models, go to your Honda dealer and purchase two upper bushings and two upper back-up rings just in case your old ones become distorted during disassembly. Remove the 6 mm drain bolt and drain the fork. Remove the dust boot and snap ring. Clamp the fork slider in a vise and remove the 6 mm socket head bolt from the bottom of the fork. Move the fork tube in and out forcibly. You may need to bang the tube out several times until the upper bushing strikes the back-up ring and the back-up ring strikes the seal, forcing it out of the slider. On the 1980-1982 models, if the bushing and back-up ring aren’t distorted, they can be used again. On the 1983 models, discard the plastic ring and foam washer. Clean the fork tube assembly, slider, bushing, and back-up ring with solvent, and reassemble the tube to the slider. Carefully press the bushing into the slider, install the back-up ring, and use your fork seal driver to knock the back-up ring against the bushing to seat the bushing. Coat the new seal with fork oil and seat it with the fork seal driver. Install the drain plug and dust boot. Use a large syringe to squirt 240 cc (1980-1981) or 290 cc (1982-1983) into the compressed air opening in the fork cap. Hold the fork upright to prevent spillage and use the adapter described above in the GL1000 paragraph.

The GL1200 fork seal replacement is similar to the 1983 GL 1100 models with the following exceptions:

1. Wrap some Scotch® brand Magic Tape™ tightly around the retaining ring groove to prevent damage to the new fork seal when installing the seal.
2. Wrap Scotch Tape tightly around the compressed air holes in the fork tube to prevent leakage when filling the fork with fork oil.
3. When draining the fork, adjust the TRAC anti-dive adjuster for maximum drainage and leave it until you reinstall the forks on the motorcycle.
4. Screw your home-made adapter into the drain plug and tilt the fork bottom end up while you inject 345 cc of fork oil into the fork.

The GL1500 fork seal replacement is similar to the 1983 GL1100 models with the following exceptions:

1. Earlier GL1500 models must be filled through the drain holes, because they have no air valves on the valve caps.
2. GL1500 Interstate models have no TRAC anti-dive case on the left fork slider.
3. Fork oil capacities for all GL1500 models EXCEPT Interstate: Right fork-320 cc, Left fork-325 cc.
4. Fork oil capacities for the GL1500 Interstate models only: Right fork-330 cc, Left fork-320 cc.